We are here to help you get your Glycol Chiller up and running as quickly as possible. G&D’s Project Manager will break down the steps for installation. Step 1: Carefully Inspect Unit & Chiller Positioning (0:00-0:50) Step 2: Piping Connections (0:51-1:15) Step 3: Verifying Power & Reset Breakers (1:16-2:02) Step 4: Filling & Flushing Reservoir (2:03-2:42) Step 5: Turn Door Switch to Run Position (2:43-2:58) Step 6: Verify Glycol Pressure & Pump Rotation (2:59-3:35) Step 7: Open up Supply Valve & Flush System (3:36-3:56) Step 8: Drain Water (3:58-4:11) Step 9: Adding Glycol & Turn Pump On (4:12-5:15) Step 10: Door Switch on & Valve open (5:16-6:26) Step 11: Adjust Thermostat (6:27-7:37) Step 12: Setting Temperature Protection (7:38-9:26) Hey, everybody. My name is John McCoy. I’m the production manager here at G&D Chillers. We’re going to run through a few steps today to get your chiller started up. It shows up from the factory crated for protection during shipping. Before you accept delivery of your new unit, please make sure you carefully inspect every aspect of the unit. I can’t stress out enough to you guys. We want to make sure you’re getting the highest quality product and nothing happened to it during shipping. You can go ahead and accept delivery, uncrate the unit, and we’ll move on to chiller positioning. When it’s time to position your chiller, typically that’s done on a concrete pad or a form of some sort to get it up off the ground to keep grass and debris from growing around the unit. The louvered access panels on the front need to be open to free air at all times. And you need at least 24 inches of clearance on the air intake side which is on the back of the chiller. When it’s time to make your piping connections to the chiller, it’s very important, highly recommended by G&D Chillers that you guys install a Y-strainer. It’s important because we don’t want any particles, shavings, PVC glue from your main line piping coming back to the chiller. So this catches all those particles when it’s time to actually make your connections and turn the chiller on. It needs to be installed at the chiller on the return line. When it’s time to get power pulled to your unit, it needs to be done by a certified electrician. An external disconnect needs to be mounted to the chiller at some point on a wall, on a post nearby. Your electrician can help you out with that. Once you’ve verified that you’ve got power to your unit, it’s important to check and reset all of the breakers to make sure nothing was tripped during shipping or anything like that. It’s a good idea just to reset all of them. Flip them down, flip them right back up, just to make sure that they’re all engaged properly. On our three-phase units, they have a different style of breaker. Turn it to the left. Turn it right back up, so the black knob is in the vertical position. It’s important to leave power to the chiller for at least four hours before firing up any of the compressors. The crankcase heaters then engage and allows the compressor to fire up free of any liquid refrigerant that may have condensed inside. OK, so at this point, you’ve got the chiller positioned where you need it. Checked all your clearances on your concrete pad. You’ve got power pulled to it. You guys are ready to start filling and flushing the reservoir which is what I’m going to show you how to do next. At this point, we need to take the panels off– that’s the first step. All right, so now that we’ve got the louvered access panels off, it’s time to fill up the reservoir located here with water. There’s a side glass right here, so you can see the level. Access to the reservoir is on the back-left corner of your unit. Take the cap off, throw garden hose in there, and get it filled up with water. And then we’re going to turn the pump on, start pushing the water through the system, so the strainer can catch any contaminants in the piping. All right, so at this point, you’ve got your glycol reservoir completely full with just water. That way, we can start pushing that stuff out, help flush your lines. When you turn the pump on at this point, turn the door switch to the run position. That engages the pump. Now, it’s time to verify glycol pressure as well as pump rotation. With the pump running, you want to make sure your ball valves are closed. And verify the pressure on the system. It should be at 20 PSI is our factory setting via the bypass valve that is installed on the unit. If your pump is spinning backwards, you’re going to see a lower pressure on your pressure gauge, as well as it’s not going to sound very good. A certified electrician can make sure the pump is spinning the right way for you. Once you verify that you’ve got proper pressure and proper rotation of your pump, it’s time to open up the supply ball valve and start sending that water out through your system. Make sure that the return ball valve stays close. That doesn’t let any of the water come back to the reservoir. It’s going to purge it through the strainer and catch all the contaminants in the system. OK, so as you’re pushing all this water through the system, you want to make sure that you do it long enough to make sure we catch all of the contaminants coming back to the system. That means you may or may not have to fill that reservoir up a couple of more times until that water coming out of the purge valve on your strainer is clean and clear. Keep in mind that you need to have this return ball valve closed at all times while you’re flushing your system. Once you’re comfortable that all the contaminants have been flushed out of the system and that water is running clear out of your Y-strainer purge valve, it’s time to start draining the water. We do this by leaving the pump running as long as possible until all the water starts coming out of the purge valve. Then you go ahead and shut your pump off, and it’s time to start adding glycol. We use propylene glycol with inhibitors. That is a must in our systems. You want it to be at a 35% mixture– getting glycol into the reservoir using a transfer pump of some kind to get it in there. You get the reservoir filled up about 10 inches below the top of the reservoir checking it with a refractometer. Glycol must be checked with a refractometer. A hydrometer will not work. Take a little bit of the glycol of your mixture, put it right here. Close this down. It’s time to take a peek through it and make sure that you’ve got a 35% mixture, 24.75 Brix. If you need a refractometer, G&D can supply these for you. Next thing you want to do is turn your pump on. Start pushing that glycol out through the system. There’s going to be a little bit of residual water inside that the jackets on your tanks, inside the pipes. There’s no way for us to drain that out. It’s going to dilute your mixture a little bit. And as you start filling up those vessels and the pipes, you’re going to notice that glycol level dropped down in your reservoir, which is a good thing. Now, you want to make sure that your glycol level is about 10 inches below the top of the reservoir during normal operating circumstances. Now that we’ve got the correct glycol mixture in the system, you’ve got your pipes and jackets full of glycol. At this point, we want to make sure that the door switches in the off position. And we’ll go ahead and open up the service valves on the unit, so we can bring the compressors on line. The way you want to do that, there’s two service valves per stage that need to be opened, and they’re marked with manila tags. One located on the compressor here and one located on the liquid line here. We need to make sure those are both opened all of the way before we start the system up. The easiest way to open the valves is using a service wrench such as this. I realize not everybody has these available. A crescent wrench or a pair of Channellocks will also work equally as well to get the valve open. When you start to open the valve, you’re going to hear a rush of refrigerant through the system. It’s perfectly normal. We want to open this valve all the way until it stops. All right, that valve is all the way open. And it’s ready to go, so we’ll put that black cap back on. And we’ll move over to the other one. It’s important to make sure that all of the valves that are marked with manila tags have been open on this unit. Specifically, there’s four total, two per stage. Your unit may have more or less depending on the style of glycol chiller that you purchased from G&D Chillers. Now that your valves are open, it’s time to turn the door switch to the run position and adjust the thermostat. Now that those valves are open, it’s going to allow the compressors to come on assuming that the thermostat is calling for cooling. It’s OK if that happens. We’re going to get it adjusted right where you need it. Thermostats lit up. They come factory set at 55 degrees with a differential of 3 and 4 respectively per stage. A single stage unit is going to come set at 55 degrees with a differential of 3. The way to adjust these is fairly simple. Press the Set button. It’s going to bring up 55 degrees which is our set point for stage one. You can run that down whatever your desired temp is. Say, today, I want to run my glycol at 40 degrees. Hold the down arrow until you reach your desired temperature. And there’s 40 degrees. When I hit the Set button, it’s going to call compressor on for cooling and take me to the set point for set point two, stage two. So we’ll hear that compressor in just a second. [COMPRESSOR RUMBLES] There she runs. She’s fired up. I think we’ll leave set point two at 255 for now. That sounds good. You hit the Set button again and it takes you back to the home screen where it displays your current glycol temperature. Now it’s time to adjust the thermal protection or temperature protection installed on the unit. We have a freeze stat which is S1. That’s a low temperature protection to prevent any freezing that may occur in the unit. There’s also set point two which is our high temp shut off to prevent any kind of malfunction which would produce a high temperatures in the system. This will keep that from happening. So when it’s time to adjust set point two as discussed, press the Set button one time brings up F. That’s Fahrenheit unit of measure for our temperature. It can be changed to Celsius if desired. Press the Set button again, it brings up 10 degrees. That’s for set point one. S1 flashing here indicates that. We need to leave that there. That’s our factory set point for a low temperature protection. Right here it says DIF1, that’s the differential for set point That’s also at 10 degrees. We want to leave that there as a factory setting. That’s generally where everything should operate for those two set points. It says C1, that means it’s in cooling mode, also a factory set point. Don’t even touch that one at all. Set button again brings you to S2 which is set point two. We need to make that one drop down to 60 or 65 right in there. 60 degrees is perfect for set point two. Press the Set button, add a 5 degree differential. It says get two down here or I’ll leave that one there. That one works just fine. Set button again says H2, that means it’s in heating mode. That’s where we want it to be. That’s perfectly normal. It’s going to auto reset after it reaches its 5 degree differential and try and fire back up for you. Set button again, you’re back at the home screen. And you’ve just adjusted set 0.2. All right, so by now, hopefully, your chiller is running smoothly and everything should be operating correctly. We’re committed to cold and the service we provide for you guys. We’re here around the clock to ensure you get anything you need day or night. Please don’t hesitate to give us a call if the need arises. Contact Us